Eating all the things at Omakase Table

We are more deliberate about going out to eat these days. High-end dinners, things I can’t or won’t make at home, or rarely, if I’m just not feeling like cooking. Even though we have done some “sushi” nights at home with high quality fish and crab, I really prefer to enjoy it at the hands of a master. And so we found ourselves at Omakase Table on Friday night for the 5.30pm seating.

I’ll start with the spoiler first. I would probably go to Omakase Table a lot more if it were closer. 5.30 dinner is always a challenge but doable when not dealing with rush hour midtown traffic. Chef Yu mentioned that they are looking at a space in Buckhead which would be as life changing as when Taka moved to Sandy Springs. I am unclear if he is moving or just opening a second location. I theorize moving. Yay!

Omakase Table has had some challenges with their liquor license so I believe they are BYOL (liquor) through May. We have enjoyed pairing sushi with champagne, wine, and sake but I am pretty interested to see what they will have on their list.

They continue to add new touches. This time, they had some table and chair setups. I was happy to see these maneki neko, lucky cats, to greet us. The raised paw side has different meaning: left for customers, right for money. I think they are just being balanced here but I like it all the same.

And my cute chopstick rest was also a maneki neko. I have to mention their fantastic chopsticks too. They came to a very fine point. I really prefer chopsticks that come to a fine point rather than the blunt ends of plastic chopsticks for example. They are not only more pleasing to look at, but they are easier to use especially with more delicate foods or to manage or cut noodles.

But enough about the creature comforts. You want to see the food. :)

We were a group of five so they usually seat us around the corner. I was in the leftmost position which meant I couldn’t hear most of the conversation, but first seat = first to be served and I could see everything easily being seated almost directly in front of Chef Yu. Here he is cutting fish for the night so it can come to the right temperature.

I really enjoy watching the slicing of the fishes to whet the appetite.

After a little caviar bite, we moved into the menu. Ankimo, monkfish liver, one of my favorites. Typically you only see ankimo in the winter but Chef Yu says that he will serve it year round. Works for me. This monkfish liver is from Boston, and it’s served with summer truffles.

Left to right: Ankimo as presented, Ankimo from behind, mochi

Next as part of the first course is dried mullet roe with mochi. Served on a stick, it reminded me of a toasted marshmallow although it was crunchy on the outside.

Hokkaido uni tasting. Yum. The box in front is the uni on the rightmost spoon. It is harvested from the sea urchin and then put back into saltwater so that it tastes like it’s right out of the ocean. The middle uni spoon is from the right box. The quality goes up from right to left. They were all delicious.

From right to left: the box in front, then right box, then left

Next up was red king crab in Japanese corn soup with Ossetra caviar. The texture of this soup was so smooth, and the corn taste so clean. I could eat a way bigger bowl of this stuff.

Beautiful presentation. I love these little lidded bowls.

Next up was this beautiful trio. Hokkaido scallop on the right. Toyama Bay firefly squid with black truffle. Female spear squid with its own egg. We’ve had the opportunity to enjoy the fleeting firefly squids a few times this season, and these went really well with the black truffles. I had never had spear squid before so this was a real treat.

On to tilefish. The scales are deep fried in sesame oil. The fish was so delicate. So fish first, and then drink up the soup!

Last dish of the main menu, which Chef said he always keeps on the menu unchanged. Uni gohan with chu toro. Uni gohan is rice prepared in the style of risotto so it is creamy and unctuous.

As we move on to the nigiri course, this is a round robin where Chef is constantly preparing the next bite. He was serving us five and a couple to my left so I mostly watched him to not miss my turn.

akami, lean tuna

o toro, fatty tuna

sakura masu, cherry blossom trout. They said this is the sign that it is spring. First time having it.

shima aji, striped jack. Mine fell over so I had to get a photo of Josh’s.

kinmedai, splendid alfonsino

torigai, cockle with finger limes

same karei, sharkskin sole with engawa, which are the fins. This was one of the standouts for me. I love the fatty unctuousness of the meat near the fins.

madai, Japanese red seabream

kanpachi, greater amberjack

sawara, Spanish mackeral

These are Japanese imperial prawns, which if I heard correctly, are the barometer for all ebi.

kuruma ebi, Japanese imperial prawn

atsutaki tamago, egg with sweet shrimp

negitoro hand roll! Mmm, I do so love a handroll.

Here we get into the extras, which of course we had to get.

This is the premium Hokkaido uni, I think.

akamutsu, blackthroat seaperch and Josh’s absolute favorite. It was really good.

Grade A Hokkaido nama uni

If there is one thing I think they are not great at, it is dessert. This is some matcha mousse cake thing that I found dry.

If you have made it to the end, thanks for hanging in there. There are certainly a lot of courses, but you are happily full at the end, even with all the extras. The staff does a lovely job with service. I look forward to my next visit - I’ll have to check out the summer menu - if not indulge my love of sushi again before then.

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What I’m reading, watching, and listening to:

• Esther Choi sharing kitchen activity from her ramen popup. Want. (IG)

• Well, that didn’t take long. Dawn Davis resigned from Bon App. That imprint is not what it used to be. I wonder if this is the end. (NYT)

• RIP Emily Meggett. (NYT)

• How to fix a warped baking sheet. I don’t have many of these but good to know. (America’s Test Kitchen)